개암풀 (Psoralea corylifolia)

보골지

1. 성분명

바쿠치올 

bachuchiol

※ 보골지는 콩과식물인 개암풀의 열매이고

바쿠치올 함유

2. 구조식

3. SKIN DEEP(EWG)

1

4. 원료 제조사

Herbapurifine® by Evonik (독일)

Bogolji Extract by The Garden of Naturalsolution (국산)

Bakutrol™ by Unigen (미국)

Sytenol A by Intercare(국산)

5. 화장품 용도

산화방지제

항균제

유연제

6. 효능(spaw o)

항염

미백 : MSH 억제와 tyrosinase 억제

항여드름1: 여드름에 2% 살리실산 보다 좋음

항여드름2: 항균으로서 C. acnes 억제도함

(oral pathogen MIC 0.25-0.5 ug/ml )

재생

항산화

7. 역사

바쿠치올은 식물로부터 유래된 천연 성분으로, 

특히 보골지(Psoralea Corylifolia)의 씨앗에 존재하는 항산화 성분이다.

인도와 중국의 전통 의학자들은 다양한 질병을 치료하기 위해 바쿠치올을 사용해왔으며, 

인도에서는 바구치, 한국에서는 보골지, 

중국에서는 부구지라는 이름으로 알려져 있다. 

8. 기타

비타민C 성분과 함께 사용할 수 있고, 

자외선에 민감하게 반응하지 않아 

낮에도 충분히 활용할 수 있다. 

물론 피부 보호차원에서 자외선차단제 바르기는 필수다. 무엇보다 레티놀은 임산부·모유수유 중인 수유부는 사용이 제한됐지만, 바쿠치올은 이같은 면에서도 자유롭다.  

"바쿠치올은 오랫동안 항염증과 항산화 목적의 스킨케어 성분으로 사용돼 왔습니다.그래서 과학자들은 더욱 자세히 연구하게 된 거죠.” 델포트는 말합니다. 

“레티놀 구조를 흉내 낸 게 아니라 피부에 작용할 때 진피에서 콜라겐 타입 1 합성을 담당하는 레티노이드 수용기를 자극해 매우 유사한 효능을 보이는 겁니다. 또한 피부가 매끄러워지도록 피부 표면의 재생 주기를 자극하죠. 즉 자극 없이 레티놀과 동일한 작용을 합니다.”

● 항염 (Anti-Sensitive)

Bakuchiol reduced microglial activation in the hippocampus and cortex tissue of LPS-injected mice.  Bakuchiol significantly suppressed LPS-injected production of TNF-α and IL-6 in serum (Lim, H. S., Kim, Y. J., Kim, B. Y., & Jeong, S. J. (2019). Bakuchiol suppresses inflammatory responses via the downregulation of the p38 MAPK/ERK signaling pathway. International journal of molecular sciences, 20(14), 3574.)

In addition to its antioxidant properties, 

this may also be related to bakuchiol's anti‐inflammatory effects.23, 45 

Furthermore, bakuchiol has not been shown to increase photosensitivity, 

as retinoid products are known to do.46 

There were no reports of photosensitivity 

in this study. (Dhaliwal, S., Rybak, I., Ellis, S. R., Notay, M., Trivedi, M., Burney, W., ... & Sivamani, R. K. (2019). Prospective, randomized, double‐blind assessment of topical bakuchiol and retinol for facial photoageing. British Journal of Dermatology, 180(2), 289-296.)

● 미백 (Anti -Pigment)

Interestingly, bakuchiol can interfere with 

two steps of the melanin synthesis pathway, blocking both α‐melanocyte‐stimulating hormone activation and tyrosinase 

(the rate‐limiting enzyme in melanin synthesis). 21, 44 (Ohno, O., Watabe, T., Nakamura, K., Kawagoshi, M., Uotsu, N., Chiba, T., ... & Uemura, D. (2010). Inhibitory effects of bakuchiol, bavachin, and isobavachalcone isolated from Piper longum on melanin production in B16 mouse melanoma cells. Bioscience, biotechnology, and biochemistry, 74(7), 1504-1506.)

● 항여드름 (Anti- Acne)

A pilot clinical study showed that  

1% bakuchiol reduced acne 

by a score of about 57%,  

whereas 2% salicylic acid only reduced acne by about 48%, but when used in combination it reduced acne lesions and inflammation upto 70% (Chaudhuri, R. K., & Marchio, F. (2011). Bakuchiol in the management of acne-affected skin. Cosmetics and toiletries, 126(7), 502.) 

 Another study found Bakuchiol to have inhibitory activity against six oral pathogens of MICs 0.25–0.5 μg/ml (Reddy, M. V., Thota, N., Sangwan, P. L., Malhotra, P., Ali, F., Khan, I. A., ... & Koul, S. (2010). Novel bisstyryl derivatives of bakuchiol: targeting oral cavity pathogens. European journal of medicinal chemistry, 45(7), 3125-3134.)

● 재생 (Anti -Wrinkle)

콜라겐 형성 

콜라겐 분해억제 

● 항산화

※Bakuchiol has been shown to activate  

nuclear factor erythroid 2‐related factor 2,  

a transcription factor  

that plays a significant role in cellular resistance to oxidative stess.26, 40

 It has broad spectrum antioxidant activity, effectively quenches superoxide, hydroxy, peroxy, peroxynitrile radicals, and singlet oxygen non radicals in addition to inhibiting lipid peroxidation. (Liu, H., Guo, W., Guo, H., Zhao, L., Yue, L., Li, X., ... & Qu, Y. (2020). Bakuchiol attenuates oxidative stress and neuron damage by regulating Trx1/TXNIP and the phosphorylation of AMPK after subarachnoid hemorrhage in mice. Frontiers in Pharmacology, 11, 712.)

※ 무자극 

Regarding tolerability, 

the patients receiving bakuchiol 

had fewer adverse cutaneous side‐effects 

than those taking retinol, 

with less stinging and scaling. 

(Dhaliwal, S., Rybak, I., Ellis, S. R., Notay, M., Trivedi, M., Burney, W., ... & Sivamani, R. K. (2019). Prospective, randomized, double‐blind assessment of topical bakuchiol and retinol for facial photoageing. British Journal of Dermatology, 180(2), 289-296.)

※ 레이티놀 대안으로 부상 

최고의 안티에이징 성분을 꼽으라면 단번에 레티놀을 떠올릴 것이다. 주름 개선 성분으로 비타민 A 계열인 레티놀은 노화와 여드름 방지에 탁월해 문제성 피부를 개선한다. 하지만 제품에 따라 피부를 자극해 표피를 얇게 만들고, 붉어지거나 가려움증, 건조한 느낌 등의 부작용을 동반할 수 있다는 것이 약점으로 꼽힌다. 

최근 레티놀의 천연 성분이라 불리는 바쿠치올(bakuchiol)에 관심에 쏠리는 이유도 여기에 있다. 항노화 효과는 유지하면서 부작용을 줄여 주름, 기미, 잡티와 같은 노화의 징후를 개선한다. 

※ 바쿠치올은 항산화작용과 항염증작용을 할 뿐만 아니라 광범위한 항균작용으로 다양한 산업에서 활용 중이다.

※ 2019년 <영국 피부과 학회지>에 발표된 해외 임상 

12주 동안 44명의 환자에게 

0.5% 바쿠치올 크림을 하루에 두 번 바르거나 

0.5% 레티놀 크림을 매일 밤 발라 연구를 진행했다.

그 결과, 바쿠치올과 레티놀은 별 차이 없이 

얼굴의 미세한 주름 표면적을 크게 감소시켰다. 

다만 차이점은, 바쿠치올 그룹에서 59%가, 

레티놀 그룹에서는 44%가 

과색소 침착이 개선된 것으로 나타났다. 

연구 결과를 통해 바쿠치올이 

레티놀처럼 주름과 색소 침착에 유사하게 작용하며, 레티놀에 비해 피부 따가움, 화끈거림, 가려움은 덜하다.

(Dhaliwal, S., Rybak, I., Ellis, S. R., Notay, M., Trivedi, M., Burney, W., ... & Sivamani, R. K. (2019). Prospective, randomized, double‐blind assessment of topical bakuchiol and retinol for facial photoageing. British Journal of Dermatology, 180(2), 289-296.)

https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/full/10.1111/bjd.16918

Prospective, randomized, double‐blind assessment of topical bakuchiol and retinol for facial photoageing

What's already known about this topic? Bakuchiol is a plant‐derived phytochemical that is known to have retinoid‐like effects in vitro. What does this study add? This clinical study sugge...

onlinelibrary.wiley.com

※ 피부 노화를 방지하기 위해선 피부의 천연 보호막을 구성하는 스쿠알렌을 보호하는 것이 중요하다. 

피부 표피의 지질에 스쿠알렌 함량이 높아야 유수분 균형으로 윤기와 탄력 있는 피부를 유지할 수 있기 때문. 하지만 스쿠알렌은 태양광선에 의해 손상을 받기 쉬워 일반적으로는 비타민 E의 항산화제 성분을 사용해왔다. 

비교 실험 결과, 바쿠치올은 비타민 E보다 스쿠알렌 손상을 60배 더 효과적으로 억제하는 것으로 밝혀졌다. 따라서 바쿠치올은 피부를 이루는 주요 성분인 스쿠알렌의 산화 억제 능력이 뛰어나 

피부 노화 방지에도 탁월한 것.

※ 바쿠치올의 또 다른 장점은 피부 자극이 없어 건성 피부와 민감성 피부를 포함한 모든 피부에 효과적으로 활용 가능하다. 또 레티놀과 달리 햇빛에 민감하게 반응하지 않아 자외선 차단제를 함께 사용하면 오전에도 사용할 수 있다. 

https://bakuchiol.net/2020/08/06/bakuchiol-a-real-buzz-in-the-blogosphere/

Bakuchiol: a real Buzz in the Blogosphere

bakuchiol.net

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bakuchiol

Bakuchiol

Bakuchiol From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia Bakuchiol is a meroterpene (a chemical compound having a partial terpenoid structure) in the class terpenophenol. It was first isolated in 1966 by Mehta et al. from Psoralea corylifolia seed and was called Bakuchiol based on the Sanskrit name, Bakuchi,...

en.m.wikipedia.org

※ 보골지 성분

P. corylifolia extract contains numerous phytochemicals, including 

flavonoids (neobavaisoflavone, isobavachalcone, bavachalcone, bavachinin, bavachin, corylin, corylifol, corylifolin and 6-prenylnaringenin),

 coumarins (psoralidin, psoralen, isopsoralen and angelicin),

 meroterpenes (bakuchiol, and 3hydroxybakuchiol).[4]

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